Cool dinner, hot descent

This corn-tomato salsa is not only tasty, it's pretty.
This corn-tomato salsa is not only tasty, it's pretty.

Summertime always calls for some bitchin’ in the kitchen, ’cause this place with its six south-facing windows gets hot. Deciding what to prepare for dinner is something of a struggle — cranking up the oven for enchiladas, oven-fried chicken or baked salmon is only adding fuel to the fire. But being a man of some appetite (as in “great fat bastard”), I generally want something more than a simple salad.

Whenever I’m stumped I turn to Martha Rose Shulman’s “Recipes for Health” feature in The New York Times. She focuses on fairly simple, seasonal dishes — as she puts it, “food that is vibrant and light, full of nutrients but by no means ascetic, fun to cook and a pleasure to eat” — and when I checked in on her yesterday she had posted a recipe for soft tacos with chicken and tomato-corn salsa whose cooking demanded only a single saucepan for poaching the bird and a skillet for warming the tortillas. No sweat, to coin a phrase.

“These light, fresh tacos make a wonderful summer meal,” Shulman wrote, and she did not lie. Happily, we have enough leftovers for a repeat performance tonight.

Meanwhile, Le Tour hits its first real mountain today. Astana is running the bunch as if they had the yellow jersey, while the guy who actually does, Fabian Cancellara, double-flatted on a descent and had to chase back on at speeds approaching 60 mph. Dude went around the corners like he was on rails. I wasn’t scared at all, but somebody shit in my seat.

• Late update: Once again, Big Tex did not get the yellow jersey, and there is much chin music among my colleagues as to just how he feels about Alberto Contador hitting the afterburners on the final klicks of the climb to Arcalis. The two of them probably split a sixer of Shiner Bock in the Astana bus and cackled at the befuddled chamois-sniffers, professional and amateur alike.

Soup kitchen

Mmm, mmm, good.
Mmm, mmm, good.

While we wait for Wall Street types to do the right thing and start jumping out of windows, we’re making soup as a hedge against the harsh economic climate. This particular pot has its roots in an old Better Homes and Gardens cookbook, but has flowered in a variety of odd directions depending upon my mood and what I have on hand.

Score yourself three pounds of crosscut beef shank and put it in a big pot with about 18 ounces of tomato juice, six cups of fluid (water, beef stock, vegetable stock or a combo), a handful of chopped onion, three or four crushed cloves of garlic, a couple teaspoons salt, a half-dozen peppercorns, a shake or two of Worcestershire sauce, a bay leaf, a dash of cumin, a pinch of Mexican oregano and whatever chile powder you may favor and can bear (this batch has a rounded teaspoon each of mild and medium Chimayo red, plus another of chipotle). Cover and simmer for two hours.

Remove the beef, chop into cubes, discard the bones, feed the marrow to your wife. Well, mine likes it. Strain the broth and skim the excess fat, unless it’s cold outside, which it is, so fuck it. Return the meat to the strained broth, add a cup or so of diced spud, another of corn, a can of red, black or white beans (drained), another of crushed roasted tomatoes, and anything else that strikes your fancy. I usually plunk a bit of roasted, peeled and chopped green chile in there, just ’cause.

Slap the lid back on and simmer for another hour. Check the seasonings and serve with a side salad and maybe some organic corn chips to crush and add for roughage. A little grated Parmigiano-Reggiano or Black Diamond cheddar makes a nice garnish. What the hell, chop a little flat-leaf Italian parsley and sprinkle that on, too. Double up on the recipe and take half to your neighborhood hobo jungle.

This is good with a French red, a Spanish rosé or a U-nited States of America beer, in this case an Obsidian Stout from Deschutes Brewery. Eat, drink and be merry, for tomorrow. …

Housecats gone bad

Cyclo-cross, schmyclo-cross, lemme sleep.
Cyclo-cross, schmyclo-cross, lemme sleep.

I used to be hard core. Lately I’m all brittle exterior and soft interior, like a Tootsie Pop, but not as sweet. Why, there was a time not so long ago that if the temperature rose to the freezing point, I was out the door like a congressman fleeing the vice squad. I had my own private cyclo-cross course, and at 8800 feet, too. Used sunning rattlesnakes for obstacles and carried a pistol just in case the course decided to redesign itself in a hostile fashion.

Somewhere along the road from there to here I turned weaker than 7-Eleven coffee. Maybe it was moving from the mountains back to town, or switching my pet preference from dogs to cats. Dogs must go out, we will go out, let me out, for the love of God. Cats find the one sunny spot in the house and cover it like Sherwin-Williams. Fuck a bunch of winter, I shit in a box. What’s t’eat around here, anyway?

But there must be some small, vestigal hint of a whiff of mutt in me somewhere, because today I ventured out for 90 minutes on the Eurocross despite a high pegged right at freezing and a dampish breeze that took the wind chill 8 degrees lower. Rode the sonofabitch over to Palmer Park and zipped around the single-track, skirting the occasional icy bits when possible and generously yielding trail to various porky nitwits sporting headphones and unleashed dogs.

Then I rolled home, whipped up a skillet full of peppers, potatoes, chicken, parsley, onion and garlic, topped it with some hard-boiled eggs, and gobbled it all down, refusing to share so much as a single solitary nibble with the housecats. Stand back and let the big dog eat, you pussies.

Snow job

Feh. Typical Bibleburg snow. Not enough to shovel, but too much to broom. And 13 degrees to boot, with a brisk wind out of the east. I note that it is 52 and partly sunny in Las Cruces, N.M. Yet I am here instead of there. I will never be smart.

A guy needs chile inside when it's chilly outside.
A guy needs chile inside when it's chilly outside.

I’m putting off the ride to nowhere as long as possible. Didn’t I burn some calories shifting snow from here to there? Sure I did. Counts as exercise, I don’t care what anyone says. And anyway, we broke fast with a revoltingly healthy meal of oatmeal, toast and orange juice, largely because we are out of eggs, sausage and potatoes. Stick that in your heart-rate monitor. Pfffbbblllpphhh.

Speaking of heart-healthy food and New Mexico, if I were there, I wouldn’t have had to spend too many blisteringly cold minutes just now roasting up some green chile on the back deck. I could’ve simply bundled up and toddled on down to Tia Sophia, The Shed or La Choza to knock back a couple or six warming tequilas while waiting for someone else to do the heavy lifting, chile-wise. Instead, the neighbors are treated to the all-too-familiar sight of the block whacko, clad like Peary at the Pole, frantically flipping chiles on the gas grill in a wind chill of minus-3 so he can whip up some chicken enchiladas in green chile sauce to treat his pneumonia.

Chile Colorado … y verde tambien

Careful, señores — hot plate! Whoops, never mind . . . these here are cold.
Careful, señores — hot plate! Whoops, never mind . . . these here are cold.

I meant to shoot a couple pix of dinner, but spaced it (lots of balls in the air, trying to get everything to finish cooking simultaneously), so you’ll have to settle for a shot of the aftermath.

We started off with a sparking rosé, corn tortilla chips and the pico de gallo salsa I made last night, segued into chicken and jalapeño quesadillas, and then dove into the main meal, a blend of red and green chile in honor of the holiday — chicken enchiladas smothered in green chile, Anasazi beans with chipotle chile, red chile roasted potatoes and posole. Dessert was an excellent raspberry cobbler prepared by Herself, as I’m not much of a baker.

I wound up having to make two batches of green chile, because the first one tasted not quite right. Not inedible, I thought, but not top shelf, either, and I’m not quite certain why. I ordinarily use a 50-50 mix of hot and mild Hatch chiles, and I suspect the hot ones may have gone slightly off thanks to an overlong stay in the fridge after defrosting. So, thinking that a case of the Chihuahua cha-cha would make a poor holiday gift indeed for my sis and brother-in-law (to say nothing of Herself and me), I whipped up a second batch using only the fresher mild chile and that proved serviceable, after I needled it a tad with some ground green and a dash of ancho powder. I had a few poblanos squirreled away, but there was no time to roast and peel the buggers. As it was, I was still cooking when the kinfolk arrived.

Nobody had to talk to Ralph on the big white phone afterward, so I consider dinner a smashing success. If you’d like to take a whack at these recipes, they’re all in the Santa Fe School of Cooking Cookbook, except for the variation of posole that I make, a one-pot jobber with diced pork that’s so old I can’t remember its origins.

What was on the menu at your place? Leave me some recipes in comments — but don’t expect me to cook ’em anytime soon. We’re gonna have leftovers for days.

Late update: Almost forgot another holiday tradition: Dancing with Herself to “Fairytale of New York” by The Pogues.