October surprises

Fall in Palmer Park.
Fall in Palmer Park.

It got good and chilly here last night — when I arose, it was exactly freezing outside. Now it’s 50-something, like me, and like me it took a long time to get there.

Last night I made another Martha Rose Shulman recipe, pasta with walnut sauce and broccoli raab, except I used broccoli florets. I had planned to do her stir-fried pork and greens, but Herself intervened on behalf of broccoli, and while I was surprised at her choice we were both pleased with the results. Plus there were enough leftovers for today’s lunch.

Tonight it’s back to caveman chow — a grilled flatiron steak from Ranch Foods Direct, some spuds and a vegetable to be determined by Herself, who is on a rare grocery-shopping excursion as part of a series of errands. I generally fetch the grub, since I do all the cooking around the DogHaus, but lacking any sort of work ethic I’m easily persuaded to sit on my ass and let someone else do the heavy lifting.

Outside the kitchen, meanwhile, Repuglican asshats and their enablers in the MSM are spastically jacking off over Barack Adolf Hitler Saddam Hussein Pol Pot “Uncle Joe” Stalin Mao Zedong Obama’s failure to bring the 2016 Olympics to Chicago and Steve Benen at Political Animal is predictably snarky.

I don’t know what all the fuss is about, frankly — Colorado voters told the International Olympic Committee to go fuck itself back in 1972, when a Denver group wanted to bring the Winter Olympics here, and we’re still on the map, albeit for all of the wrong reasons (Focus on the Family, Doug Bruce, Doug Lamborn — the list goes on and on). But at least we didn’t piss away 13 times the original estimate to host that frozen clusterfuck, the way California did in 1960.

Why, the Winter Games don’t even include cyclo-cross. That right there’s a deal-breaker as far as I’m concerned.

A flash, in the pan

One of the benefits of going back to a regular schedule is that I get to pay more attention to cooking instead of simply throwing something together in a rush and then jumping back in the barrel.

Martha Rose Shulman has offered a couple of interesting dishes recently in her “Recipes for Health” column in The New York Times. I whipped up her stir-fried tofu and peppers night before last, and it was a hit; it’s an easy bit of cookery, based on a Chinese dish called rainbow beef, and reminds me slightly of an old favorite, kung pao beef, from (of all things) a tattered Betty Crocker cookbook I bought on impulse at some grocery checkout years ago.

Tonight I’m going to tackle her stir-fried pork and greens with noodles, which is just a little more elaborate but packs more punch, including as it does a half-pound of swine instead of soybean curd (Shulman says the vegetarians among you may substitute tofu for the pork).

While we’re discussing mindful cookery, you might enjoy this article from Tricycle, the Buddhist quarterly. Author Laura Fraser rattles the pots and pans with Dale and Melissa Kent, who spent seven years at Tassajara Zen Mountain Center in California’s Ventana Wilderness. Dale did a two-year stint as tenzo, head of the kitchen; Melissa was ino, or head of the meditation hall.

Zen priest and cook Edward Brown tells Fraser that mindfulness in cooking “is much more about receiving your experience than dictating it. Most people’s habits of mind and activity, when it comes to cooking, are about making it come out the way it’s supposed to, rather than receiving and appreciating it the way it is.”

With that in mind (pun intended), I set about making breakfast this morning. It’s a meal that has been haphazard here lately, generally a fruit smoothie, some oatmeal, occasionally just a container of yogurt and some juice. Herself had mentioned a hankering for scrambled eggs with green chile, but was otherwise unspecific, so I winged it. Improvisation. A couple bars of jazz in the kitchen.

Locating some roasted Hatch mild chile in the bottom of the ’fridge, I peeled and diced a large one, then sautéed it in butter and olive oil for a few minutes, adding a small minced glove of garlic about 20 seconds before pouring the eggs — whipped with sea salt, freshly ground pepper and a dash of green chile powder from the Santa Fe School of Cooking — into the skillet.

Then, with one eye on the cooking eggs I assembled two basic side salads — just a few leaves of lettuce and some sliced tomatoes drizzled with olive oil — and toasted some fresh bread from a local bakery. Then I shoveled the eggs onto the plates and served ’em up.

Simple stuff, I know. But it sure did taste good.

Chile today, hot tamale

This oughta hold me for a couple weeks.
This oughta hold me for a couple weeks.

For a variety of perfectly defensible and irksome reasons I am not in Santa Fe collecting freshly roasted bushels of New Mexico’s finest green chile, soaking at Ten Thousand Waves, eating at La Choza, drinking at Second Street Brewery and dodging cacti on the Dale Ball trails.

That said, we are not entirely without the green goodness here at Chez Chien. I picked up one bushel of freshly roasted medium Hatch from a seasonal street vendor I’ve patronized for the past three years and another of Big Jim from Colorado’s Western Slope, courtesy of Spencer’s Lawn & Garden. Six bags — about 50 chiles — are in the ‘fridge for immediate use, and the rest, as you can see, are in the freezer.

The Hatch seems a bit mild, but the Big Jim packs something of a wallop. After peeling and nibbling on a pepper from each batch, I made a pot of green chile sauce using a 50-50 blend, poured it over a rack of buffalo chorizo enchiladas with a little extra-sharp cheddar and Monterey Jack, popped it in the oven for 20 minutes, dug in and presto! Head sweat. Good times.

Herself had to take an intermission between enchiladas, but at least her hair didn’t catch fire this time.

Rattle those pots and pans

Here’s an interesting read from Michael Pollan on the transformation of cooking from meal preparation to spectator sport. Writing for The New York Times, Pollan says the average American spends 27 minutes daily on food preparation and another four minutes cleaning up — “less than half the time it takes to watch a single episode of “Top Chef” or “Chopped” or “The Next Food Network Star.”

Adds Pollan: “What this suggests is that a great many Americans are spending considerably more time watching images of cooking on television than they are cooking themselves — an increasingly archaic activity they will tell you they no longer have the time for. What is wrong with this picture?”

Plenty, says Pollan, whose piece touches favorably on Julia Child and less so on the rise to dominance of industrially prepared “food” and “cooking” that consists largely of opening packages. He also brings up Erica Gruen, the cable exec who shifted the Food Network’s target audience from people who like to cook to people who like to eat — to wit, men. Hence the rise of gastronomic gladiator shows like “Iron Chef.”

“People don’t watch television to learn things,” Pollan quotes her as having told a journalist. Truer words, etc.

Part of the problem, of course, is that we’re all working more — since 1967, Pollan says, Americans have added “the equivalent of a month’s full-time labor” to the total amount of time we spend at work each year.

“Not surprisingly,” he adds, “in those countries where people still take cooking seriously, they also have more time to devote to it.”

And don’t expect an American gastronomic renaissance anytime soon, if food-marketing researcher Harry Balzer’s pessimistic view of our culinary future is accurate. Discussing the dream of Americans returning to their own drab kitchens from their glitzy televised counterparts, he tells Pollan:

“Not going to happen. Why? Because we’re basically cheap and lazy. And besides, the skills are already lost. Who is going to teach the next generation to cook? I don’t see it.

“We’re all looking for someone else to cook for us. The next American cook is going to be the supermarket. Takeout from the supermarket, that’s the future. All we need now is the drive-through supermarket.”

Now, before you bellow, “That’s bullshit! I cook!”, take a look around you. Sure, you cook, and so do I. But the only thing eating into McDonalds’ profits is unfavorable currency trading — it’s considered bad news that the burger giant’s same-store sales rose only 2.6 percent from June 2008 to June 2009. Analysts had expected twice that.

Tour ends, chile season looms

Oh yeah. Word comes from New Mexico that this year’s chile crop should be killer. Hatch Valley farmer Jimmy Lytle told The Associated Press that his crop is about two weeks ahead of schedule and he hasn’t had “any problems whatsoever.” I can’t wait. I went through last year’s chile more rapidly than expected and have been making do with whatever I can find fresh at the grocery plus (ick) canned. It just ain’t the same.

The parade into Paris is on as we speak. Ho hum. Out comes the champagne. A quick sip for the cameras and the plastic cups get tossed. What a waste of good wine. The only suspense remaining is who wins the finale on the Champs-Élysées. I’d love to see Thor Hushovd pip Mark Cavendish, but I think one of his teammates would have to grab a fistful of the little bastard’s jersey for it to happen.*

Meanwhile, a real race is going on right here in Colorado — the World Championship Pack-Burro Race in Fairplay, a 29-mile out-and-back footrace for men and jackasses alike to the top of 13,185-foot Mosquito Pass and back. My man Hal Walter is in the thick of it with his burro, Laredo, and you’ll be able to read all about it sometime in the next day or so at Hardscrabble Times.

* Jeebus. Mark Renshaw gassed it so hard out of that final corner he sucked all the oxygen out of Garmin-Slipstream’s lungs. That Manx git can flat make a bike hop.